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Discovering Iceland
By BETTE McDEVITT
Iceland
Aerhaps youve taken one of
Icelandairs popular low-cost flights to Europe. The flight stopped in
Keflavik, Icelands International Airport. You may have looked out the
window and shivered. People outside were walking at a 45-degree angle against
driving sheets of sleet. The old lava near the airport looked like the moon.
You were glad to be going on to Europe.
If you had stayed over, the weather might have changed in two
minutes. The sun, languishing on the horizon, might have produced a double
rainbow that would make you whimper. Iceland is a large watercolor in
progress, my friend Lois said on the second day of her visit.
Welcome to Iceland, or Paradice as the poet Eliot
Weinberger called it, the only country, according to Amnesty International,
that has no human rights violations of its own citizenry, and that sends their
prisoners home for holidays.
Icelanders are a literate and internationally savvy people who
like to banter with you. The 250,000 citizens have a healthful environment and
a progressive government that protects their citizens from birth to death.
There is universal education, universal health care, almost 100 percent
literacy, very low unemployment, longevity, no pollution and a prosperous
middle class.
Everyone is known by her or his first name, including the
president, and is listed that way in the phonebook. They follow a system known
as patronymics. An Icelanders Christian name is followed by his or her
fathers name and the suffix son or dóttir:
Gudrún Pétursdóttir (Gudrún, daughter of
Pétur). Relatives can therefore have many different
surnames, which sometimes causes confusion to foreigners.
Iceland is as homogenous as the United States is diverse. The
language, pure Norse, is the same as their ancestors spoke 1,000 years ago.
Icelanders know their genealogy and their history from the first settlement,
recorded in the Sagas. These are not the stories of kings, for there were none,
but the stories of farmers and settlers. Peter Giersson, who owns a hotel in
Borgarnes, in the heart of Saga country, can show you where each story took
place, and where the most famous writer, Snorri Sturluson, relaxed in his
still-steaming hot tub.
Iceland is not a closed society. They have welcomed many Eastern
European immigrants recently, and people from Yugoslavia who face
discrimination in their homeland because of ethnic intermarriages. The
immigrants often work in the fish factories in the north of the country.
Fr. Jakob Rolland, parish priest at Christ the King Cathedral in
Reykjavik, talked about Iceland, his adopted country over coffee and cakes at
the rectory. Coffee is the eighth sacrament here. We cant do
anything without it, he said. Rolland, from a mountainous region of
France, has learned the language, changed his name from Jacques to Jakob --
no one here could say Jacques -- and taken out Icelandic
citizenship. Im bound to this parish. This is my home now, he
said.
Iceland is a challenge for the Catholic church. The country
converted from paganism to Christianity in the year 1000, by agreement of the
Parliament. On their way home to the North, from Thingveiller, where the
Parliament met, the leaders threw their statues into the Godafoss Falls, rather
like that last pack of cigarettes youll ever smoke. There were a few
holdovers, eating horsemeat, a little bit of sacrifice to the gods and a bit of
infanticide. Icelandic people defend their heathen ancestors, arguing that life
was very harsh in those times, and if people could not feed their infants, they
had no alternative.
It was a Catholic country until the Reformation in the 16th
century, when the Catholic bishop, Jon Aronsson, and his two sons were
beheaded. He is still regarded as a national martyr, a man who gave his
life for his religion, Rolland said. Now heres a twist: In Iceland,
priests were allowed to marry, but because Aronsson was not married and had two
sons, he was denied sainthood, Rolland said.
The Lutheran church was established as the state religion, but in
1857, the Catholic church returned to set up a mission, with Sisters of St.
Joseph and the Montfort Order of the priesthood. Slowly the prejudice
against the Catholics calmed down, and the Icelandic people regained freedom of
religion again in 1874, Rolland said.
There are now 3,500 Catholics in the country, only a little
over 1 percent of the population, Rolland said. There are 13 priests in
Iceland, three of them Icelandic. Four priests are traveling most of the time,
visiting the immigrant population from Eastern Europe and the Philippines, who
are in every community in the country except three. The present bishop of
Iceland is Dutch, Johannes Gijsen.
Rolland said his Icelandic is not fit for print and
always has an Icelandic person check it for grammar. Their language and
culture are very important to them, he said. The weather is
dreadful and the cost of living is high. They only stay here because it is
their culture.
Recently Rolland has been listening to tapes of Halldor
Laxness books as he travels. Laxness, Icelands Nobel laureate, died
a year ago, at the age of 95. His last book Days Among the Monks about
his sojourn in a monastery in 1920 was published in the 1980s. Laxness also
wrote Independent People, the story of everyman, and The Atom
Station about the conflict in Iceland over joining NATO.
When Laxness accepted the Nobel Prize, he paid tribute to his
family and to that community of 150,000 men and women who form the
book-loving nation that we Icelanders are.
My thoughts fly to the old Icelandic storytellers who
created our classics, whose personalities were so bound up with the masses that
their names, unlike their lives work, have not been preserved for
posterity, he said. They live in their immortal creations and are
as much a part of Iceland as her landscape. For century upon dark century those
nameless men and women sat in their mud huts writing books without so much as
asking themselves what their wages would be, what prize or recognition would be
theirs. There was no fire in their miserable dwellings at which to warm their
stiff fingers as they sat up late at night over their stories. Yet they
succeeded in creating not only a literary language that is among the most
beautiful and the subtlest there is, but a separate literary genre. While their
hearts remained warm, they held on to their pens.
Travel information |
Icelandair is the only carrier serving the country; fares
go from $800 in the summer, to $500 in winter, lower with special promotions,
including hotels and cars. Phone: 1-800-223-5500; Web site:
http://www.icelandair.is/interpro/icelandair/ipbwi2.nsf/pages/front
Iceland Tourist Bureau is on the Web at
http://www.icetourist.is. Or call the bureau in New York at (212)
949-2333, fax: (212) 983-5260. Ask for Iceland A to Z, a good
planning tool. Where to stay:
There are at least 15 hotels in Reykjavík,
including the elegant Borg and the four-star Saga, and one at each stop on the
main road if you are making a driving circle around the country.
Guesthouses are a modestly priced alternative. Solbakki
(Sunhouse) in Hveragerdi, a hot spring and greenhouse area 40 miles from the
international airport, is one. Phone: (354) 483-4212, fax: (354) 483-4012. Its
rate is about $30, including breakfast. Icelandic breakfasts are a full meal:
cheese, cold meats, fruit, cereal, toast, eggs, and sometimes caviar and
herring.
In Reykjavík, try the Guesthouse Isafold, Barugata
11, 101 Reykjavík, a large sea captains house on a quiet
residential street, on a hill above the harbor. Phone: (354) 561-2294, fax:
(354) 562-9965. The rate is $50 per person, including breakfast. The owner,
Gunnar, enjoys repartee. When one woman asked what kind of weather to expect,
he said, What do you like? The weather does change every 10
minutes, from hailstones to rainbows. Population and
climate:
Half of Icelands 250,000 live in the capital,
Reykjavík. The others are scattered throughout small coastal towns,
fishing villages or the other major city, Akureyri, on the North Coast.
The interior, which bubbles, steams, erupts, comes
together and moves apart, is uninhabitable. Iceland is a living geology lesson.
There are no trees to speak of in Iceland, and they like it that way -- they
like to see the far-off landscape. There is little wildlife, a few foxes and
small rodents. An occasional unfortunate polar bear has drifted over from
Greenland on an iceberg, unwelcome because they kill sheep. They are likely to
be shot.
Temperature in Reykjavík is usually moderate, in
the 40s to 50s. The North is warm in the summer and fiercely cold in the
winter. The wind is wild throughout the country, sometimes over 50 miles per
hour. Background research:
Daily News from Iceland is a Web site that offers many
links: http://www.centrum.is/icerev/daily1.html
Independent People and The Atom Station,
books by Halldor Laxness.
Children of Nature and Cold Fever,
two films by Icelandic filmmaker Fridrik Thor Fridriksson.
Christ the King Cathedral in Reykjavík has a home
page at http://www.vortex.is/~catholica/endex.html with information
about the history of Catholicism in the country.
-- Bette McDevitt |
Bette McDevitt is a freelance writer in Pittsburgh, and a
member of the Thomas Merton Center.
National Catholic Reporter, October 15,
1999
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