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Inside NCR
Why were of two minds about
food
If you want to read about food, you
could turn to The New York Times, Feb. 3, whose The Living
Arts section has noticed a subtle adjustment in the good life, as
expressed by one diner: Theres a trend toward restaurants where the
food is really fantastic, but the atmosphere is casual and you are made to feel
welcome. Were talking nuance here.
Or you could turn to NCRs page 13 where some
excellent reporting by Kathryn Casa offers different food for thought.
Its about what seldom gets said when people write or talk about food, and
its vitally important.
We need to be honest. Before Adam was a mile out of Paradise, and
the key thrown away, being a typical male, he was hungry. He had already tasted
the drawbacks of fruit, especially Eves apple, and no doubt soon got
tired of potatoes and pasta. What I need is meat, he probably
said.
One wonders did he feel a tinge of conscience when he killed his
first rabbit or cow or whatever. The bad news for the world is that for some of
us to eat well, a lot of animals get badly treated. Our meat-eating rituals
have evolved since Adams day, the dead meat elegantly camouflaged in your
butcher section. But the bald fact is that we kill animals, birds and fish in
such numbers that we dare not think too much about it. And, adding insult to
injury, we mistreat the birds and animals from the day they are born until the
day we kill them, so that we can eat them cheaply and so that armies of
middlepersons can get rich on the transaction as the story shows.
Big theological and human questions seem to be lurking here. It
would be a giant step toward solving the cruelty dilemma if we all went
vegetarian. That, however, merely brings a wider problem into focus. Animals
would still get killed, often cruelly. Big animals kill smaller ones, while
birds and fish and insects do ditto. This is bound to be a sore spot for
creationists of the purer hue: There is a savagery to life on earth that makes
one wonder if God shouldnt have taken one more day on creation and found
some practical solutions to the restaurant problem and likewise to the
predatory proclivities of nearly every living thing that as soon as it emerges
from the ooze wants to demolish some other part of creation just to stay
alive.
Its no wonder were ambivalent about food. Its
part of the dilemma of being human. There is part of us that enjoys food
immensely, and, lets face it, the more money we have the more we indulge this
part of ourselves. As a race we have made food a fine art. Some nations are
famous in this regard, the French for example, while Italians are famous more
for the length of the meal and the single-mindedness devoted to it than for the
substance itself. And dont even mention the Irish: A few years ago, there
was an elegant book, Irish Culinary Masterpieces, which was all blank
pages on the inside.
The food problem is much more complicated than the above dilemma
hints. It is surrounded not only by practical problems but by moral problems
that call for choices on our part. The Casa article is a significant
contribution to the debate.
-- Michael Farrell
National Catholic Reporter, February 12,
1999
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