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Column Crazed by sunset, fog, glimpses of wildness
By JEANNETTE BATZ
On Newfoundlands rocky western
coast, you dont talk much: The raw beauty of the fjords and glacial lakes
stun you into their own deep silence. Every bend in the boardwalk trails of
Gros Morne National Park has me reaching wordlessly for my camera.
I reach so many times, in fact, that I strain my marriage.
Especially after begging my husband to brake the car on a high-speed curve and
pull onto the gravel shoulder that drops into a cliff. Are you
nuts? he retorts, teeth clenched as he negotiates the curve.
I am a bit nuts, crazed by the beauty of peach sunset and smoky
fog floating over mossy-green, billion-year-old mountains. At home, our evening
horizon is a Dumpster-studded alley. I ache to somehow capture this view, take
its Platonic image back with us and bask in the reflected glow of its
creation.
I shoot roll upon roll on every hike, sweat glazing the
viewfinder, black ants stinging the back of my neck while I focus.
Long-suffering husband wearily slings the stuffed-sausage camera bag over his
shoulder and waits.
Then we see the moose.
A great big female moose with huge, soft ears, lying down in a
clearing. At first sight she seems serene, but then we notice that her ears are
twitching nervously, and black flies have settled on her velvety brown cheeks.
She is panting. Hard. As we hold our breath, she shifts, and we start to fear
shes stuck in the ancient peat bog.
By now, other hikers are traipsing up the trails slope, but
-- the magic of universal reverence -- they slow the second we mouth the word
moose. It is, fortunately, an easy word to mouth. A chubby little boy
whos stomping rambunctiously freezes in mid-whoop, then tiptoes the rest
of the way like a Charlie Chaplin caricature. When Andrew offers our binoculars
and guides the boys sightline, he breathes a long awed,
Wow.
Together, we watch spellbound as the moose pants, gazing straight
ahead, her big dark eyes cloudy with a purpose we cannot divine. Maybe
shes having a baby, a woman whispers. That sound she just
made was almost like a contraction. The woman grins. Been there,
done that.
The two of us peer closer, feeling a female solidarity, yet eager
for knowledge of her wildness. She tosses her head, looking distressed, and we
move back reflexively, guiltily aware that we are invading her space merely to
satisfy our curiosity.
Another group comes round the bend, slowing at our signal, but
passing us to get closer. A girl scrambles onto a big rock to snap pictures, a
boy follows, and soon everybodys handing them cameras. The conversation
grows louder in the excitement, and when a woman in her 30s replaces the kids
on the rock, she exhorts the moose to Get up so she can get a
better shot.
Im so mad my vision blurs. Impotently, I hiss
ssshhhh, but the woman just keeps clucking and taunting. The little
boy grows bold, too, and asks if I want him to climb up and take a picture with
my camera. No film left, I lie, wanting just a bit of peace for the
moose.
Finally she does rise, slowly, as though the bog has sucked her
down, and we see torn, bloody wounds on both hind legs, right where a
cars fender would have caught her.
Around the sores, her fur is blackened by a buzzing, vibrating
swarm of flies. She glances once more our way, then with a heavy, impenetrable
dignity, begins to walk, as best she can, in the opposite direction.
My husband and I head for the car and speed to the nearest Parks
Canada interpretation center, muttering all the way that nobody will care.
After all, what can they do? It happens all the time. Theyll probably
tell us to let nature take its course. I follow Andrew to the desk, muttering
my silent retort (We dont let nature take its course when we build
highways through their habitat, do we?). But the ranger is already asking
warm, urgent questions. She radios the duty warden, who wants to know exactly
where on the trail we found the moose. We drive back to our cabin greatly
relieved.
On the way, I proudly remind Andrew how I withstood the temptation
to photograph her. How it would have felt just like stealing her soul, as some
native peoples fear. How I knew Id been trying to freeze and objectify
all this natural beauty, to somehow mark it with my camera, stake a private
claim to it, make it a permanent possession. He nods approvingly.
The sun is setting over the ocean just as we arrive, washing the
sky with soft pink and purple. All my calm nobility vanishes. Grabbing
Andrews camera, which is loaded with our last roll of high-speed film, I
race outside the cabin barefoot while hes still calling out instructions.
Snap! Snap! I shoot the last two frames in smug rapid succession, thrilled to
have gotten it.
Then, just as I hear the film spool start to rewind, the sun
breaks through the thickest cloud and it glows a translucent pink, light
spilling over to illuminate the entire sky, gold streaking through like God.
Ive missed it.
I carefully carry the camera back inside, thanking Andrew, in a
small, formal voice, for its use. We make some tea and watch the darkness fall,
and finally, as the lighthouse across the cove begins its steady flashing, I
feel my heart -- which nearly catapulted itself across the ocean trying to
claim that sky -- settle back into its cradle of ribs.
Some instances of beauty can be captured.
Others remain Gods.
Jeannette Batz is a staff writer for The Riverfront
Times, an alternative weekly newspaper in St. Louis.
National Catholic Reporter, September 17,
1999
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