Destinations In a yellow house on sparkling Dublin Bay, I
stay until I belong
By PATTY McCARTY
Funny thing about Ireland. Lots of
people go there. And go again and again. The island is small -- about one-third
the size of Kansas. But theres lots to see, and you cant see it all
in a week or two. That wasnt what I wanted to do anyway.
I wanted to stay somewhere until I felt I was part of the place.
Some may think that sounds as much fun as watching paint dry, but it was what I
wanted.
On my only other trip to Ireland 10 years ago -- a time when I did
circle the island in a week -- I had spent a night at a bed and breakfast in a
little town south of Dublin on the bay.
This time I would be traveling alone after reporting on a meeting
at University College Dublin in Belfield, a Dublin suburb. I wanted to go back
to something a little bit familiar -- the comfy beds and hearty breakfasts at
Idrone House. I wanted to go into Dublin on the DART, the nifty little commuter
train that skims along the edge of Dublin Bay with stops at all the little
towns that were once seaside villages and are becoming hometowns for
Dublins bright young people. I wanted to walk along Dublin Bay and let
its sparkle seep into my eyes.
When the taxi dropped me at Idrone House, I could smell the fresh
and slightly fishy scent of the bay a block away. Bernie Potter, who was just
starting out in the bed and breakfast business 10 years ago, welcomed me with
tea and chocolate biscuits. She and her husband, Pat, who ran a nearby pub last
time I was there, now share the work of the bed and breakfast with alternate
time off for golf. (Idrone, also the name of a street that runs above the edge
of the bay, is the name of an ancient barony in what is now County Carlow,
south of Dublin.)
Idrone House is a sturdy 150-year-old house on a corner facing
Newtown Avenue, which was probably new when the house was built. The house,
which can accommodate nine guests, is made of cut granite blocks painted a
sunny yellow with white trim around the big windows. The front door is bright
blue. Only two of the houses three stories show from the street. The land
falls away at the back, allowing for the big back windows of the Potters
first floor apartment. I would stay here a week and then fly home.
Pat had scaffolding out behind and was painting the house, which
didnt seem to need it. Houses near the sea need a lot of
painting, he told me.
My room was small, white, fresh and at the front of the house. Its
big window looked across the street to the back of the Church of St. John the
Baptist. The church was also 150 years old and made of cut granite blocks, but
these, unpainted, were dark gray, making the church seem even more massive and,
despite the airy steeples, ponderous.
A source of wonder
That church was a source of wonder to me. I visited it at least
once a day and on Sunday attended a Mass in Irish. How could the Irish build a
church this massive on this side of Ireland, I wondered, when my
great-grandfather on the other side of the island had to flee the country after
a run-in with an English soldier who jumped him on his way to Mass? He hid the
soldiers sword in the thatched roof of his cottage, the story goes, took
his two sons, left his wife and daughter and went to southern Minnesota. The
wife and daughter came later.
Mrs. Potter had two answers to my wonderment: Catholics always
built big churches throughout the island. And: A lot of people got away with
murder in those days.
I had never thought of it that way.
On my first day in Blackrock, I went to the big church about 1:25
p.m. A few older people lingered. I asked a woman, Did you have a noon
Mass?
Its at 1:05 every day, she answered.
The 20-minute Mass lives! I thought. These Irish
pray fast.
That wasnt the whole story. One day Doreen Hackett, whom I
had met at the church, stepped forward to lead the rosary after Mass.
Before each Our Father, she said, Oh, my Jesus, forgive us
our sins, save us from the fires of hell, lead all souls to heaven, especially
those who have most need of thy mercy.
I knew that prayer.
After the rosary Doreen led us in Hail Holy Queen and
St. Michael, defend us in battle ... I can keep up with this
woman, I thought. Then she began a prayer that opened with Mercy, my
Jesus, and asked forgiveness for a vast panoply of sins. I decided she
was way out of my class. Doreen later told me that was the rosary and the
trimmings.
Idrone House, the big church, the string of row houses that face
the bay across Idrone Terrace, the big, old, down-at-the-heel Carnegie Library
and the buildings that house a couple of blocks of shops and eateries along
Main Street are the old part of Blackrock, the part called the
village. All around it are tall new office and apartment buildings and
more being built.
That old Celtic Tiger! Doreen exclaimed. I think
we could do with a bit less of the boom, because theres cranes and
building all over. She lives in one of the well-kept row houses down the
street from the church. It is the home she moved to with her parents when she
was a girl.
Plenty o progress
A block or two away a wrecking ball suspended from a crane seemed
about to demolish a small church that had once been a part of a Franciscan
convent, but a man told me, Its just an auld building theyre
tearin down. The church is being left. I think its a listed
buildin, ya know.
An electrician heading to a job told me, Theres plenty
o progress.
Young businessmen in dark suits walk two by two along Idrone
Terrace above the bay during lunch hour. A few young women in dark suits and
chunky high heels walk along Main Street. Every third person is talking on a
cell phone. Everyone has an umbrella. ATMs are everywhere, often with a string
of young people in line. Lots of people smoke in Ireland -- two of the three
people at the next table when I stopped for coffee and a scone.
Double-decker buses whip down Newtown Avenue and turn to cross
Main Street and head into Dublin. At busy corners, stoplights click slowly as
you wait and fast when its time to cross. Otherwise, Blackrock would be a
good place to get run down by a Mazda or a BMW.
A postman rushed along Main Street with mailbags strapped to his
bicycle. He ducked into a shop to leave mail and hurried on. He wore a New York
baseball cap.
I walked a lot, took lots of photos. It was early July, and roses
bloomed in every front yard. Like California with rain.
One of my favorite photos shows a tall, reserved man who played
the accordion on Main Street. When I photographed him he was in front of
Blackrock Center, which seemed to be just another storefront until I entered,
and magically there appeared two stories of shops that included a sprawling
supermarket called the Superquin, a flower shop, child care area, a book store,
other stores and a luggage shop.
On Sunday I discovered Blackrock Market, a little alley off Main
Street where I found lots of vendors offering all manner of stuff -- only on
Saturday and Sunday. My find was a collection of hand-tinted and matted photo
postcards from the turn of the century. One shows the church and one a steam
locomotive chugging along the tracks where todays DART runs, not carrying
commuters but Dublin day-trippers to and from the seaside.
A good place to find
I took the DART into Dublin twice. Once just to see if I could
find Trinity College, which is several blocks from Tara Station. Trinity is a
good place to find. In addition to the ancient, beautifully illustrated Book of
Kells, Trinity has a new, spacious visitors center with public restrooms and a
place to pick up lunch. Across a busy street from Trinitys entrance a
street vender was selling jewelry, and an artist was sketching chalk pictures
on canvas taped to the sidewalk.
Heading back to Tara Station, I got lost. I asked someone for
directions, but he was also a tourist. A couple said, Thats where
were going. Come along. They were Rose and Owen MacHugh who had
come by train from County Mayo on the west of the country. They had been
shopping and Rose had bought a new coat. They had some time to spend so they
decided to ride to Howth, at the north end of the DART line. I rode with them.
My grandfather, Dan, one of the boys who made a hurried exit from the country,
was from Mayo. Meeting Rose and Owen felt like finding some of my roots. The
journey to Howth was quick. We got off there, the train turned around and we
got back on and zipped back to Dublin. I said goodbye to the MacHughs and they
headed for their cross-country train. I caught the DART south to Blackrock.
My next trip to Dublin was to see a Saturday matinee at the Abbey
Theatre, Big Maggie by John B. Keane, a contemporary Irish
playwright. I caught a late morning train to Tara Station, walked to my
landmark, Trinity College, although it was out of the way. I crossed the
Liffey, the river that flows through Dublin, at the Hapenny Bridge, a
pedestrian bridge. Built in 1816, it originally cost a halfpenny to cross. I
was then on Abbey Street and knew the theater was not far, but couldnt
find it. I asked several artsy-looking people for directions. One said this
way; another pointed that way. This is the national theater were talking
about! I spot a newsstand. Surely the man who operates the stand will know. And
he does.
A short way from the theater, a thin young man approached me. He
said he was homeless and said, I havent had a ting all day.
Thats how bad its got in Ireland. He said he could get a good
meal for 3 pounds at a place that serves homeless people. I gave him three big,
beautiful silver pound coins with an Irish harp on one side and a sharp-beaked
bird in flight on the other. He kissed my cheek and said, Take care
nobody robs you. Theres tieves all over.
The set for Big Maggie had a graveyard with gravestone
at the one side. The counter and shelves of a small shop took up the rest of
the stage. All were washed in gloomy gray. A sparse audience waited. A woman
near me studied the set and whispered to her husband, This isnt a
comedy.
Big Maggie, a widow, alienates her adult children as
she attempts to manage the small shop her husband has left. Not a comedy.
Heading back to Blackrock, I found hundreds of young people
crowding the platform waiting for the DART. Robbie Williams, an English rock
star would perform that night and the next night at Landsdowne Stadium, between
Dublin and Blackrock. We crowded into the green train car and stood, packed and
happy. Almost everyone but me got off at Landsdown.
Two days later as I walked along Idrone Terrace, an older couple
greeted me with smiles. We had passed each other on this walk before. The woman
said, Lovely evening, thank God. I felt I belonged there. I
thought, Now I can go home.
Patty McCarty, NCRs copyeditor, is a
frequent contributor to the newspaper.
Related Web sites |
The Abbey
Theatre www.abbeytheatre.ie
Blackrock
Market www.connect.ie/users/blackrock
County Dublin
Tourism www.countydublin.com
DART www.irishrail.ie/dart
Trinity
College www.tcd.ie |
National Catholic Reporter, April 12,
2002
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